*as published in North Canton Living Magazine
Northern California Part Two
2009
I squinted upward searching the tree’s canopy for a glimpse of the sky. The trees soared above interlocking and blocking the sky. I strolled through the county campgrounds with my shower kit in search of the showers. Perched on the outside of the building were weak solar lights that barely cut the gloom of the day. It was noon. It felt like midnight under that tree canopy.
Day two of my week-long trip through the redwoods of Northern California. After my disastrous attempt to leave Oakland which resulted in multiple crossings of the bridge to San Francisco, I had begun my journey. I was post heart surgery, post chemo, and my cancer was classified as having ‘no evidence of disease.” This was my week in nature to heal mentally, emotionally, and physically. A week to myself to prove I could manage on my own. I was excited and nervous but little did I know that it would spark a life of travel. My origin story.
Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Four hours north of San Francisco up Highway 101 lies California’s largest redwood state park. Covering more than 50,000 acres with 17,000 ancient old-growth coast redwoods. Burlington Campground is meticulously clean and the campsites are dispersed among the imposing 1,000-year-old giants. The campgrounds are located near the park’s visitor center which is worth the stop especially if you have little ones with lots of questions.
Burlington Campground lies near one end of the Avenue of the Giants. This world-famous 31-mile stretch of historic Highway 101 is accessible by most vehicles. However, if you are longer than 30 feet, you will have trouble. I was only 19 feet but there were times when the trees encroached on the road and this was their forest – so I respected the trees. It’s along this route you will see the Shrine Drive Thru Tree – kitschy but cool.
For me, this was the first hike in the sweetly scented thick forest. I felt cast back in time and expected to hear dinosaurs roam. The trees were immense and the foliage large and foreign. It is here they filmed Star Wars, Bird Box and others.
Elk Prairie Campground
From Humboldt Redwoods State Park, I continued north through picturesque Eureka towards Elk Prairie Campground about five hours north. Elk Prairie is operated by Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and is just north of the Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center which is operated by the National Park System. This visitor center is a must-stop – not just because of the visitor center – which is lovely – but the beach it sits on. The beach behind the center is the raw Pacific coastline you imagine with rocks jutting from the surf. Deep and wild with mist and chill, this is an accessible beach with little traffic.
My evening at Elk Prairie was spent perched on a bench looking down and across a large grassland watching herds of elk graze. The sunset was quietly on my right and I could feel the warm rays seep into my tired joints after a few days of long driving. Bliss.
I contemplated continuing north but decided to instead retrace some of my steps and head back toward San Francisco. I turned west at Leggett to pick up Highway One which traced the coastline. This famous twisty drive is two lanes with steep drop-offs and no berm. I took my time enjoying the thrill of the drive up and over the mountain range. The sign warns you at the start that there is no turning back until you reach the coast. I drove slowly with care as I shared the road with adventurous bicyclists loaded down with camping gear. I watched with great admiration as a woman decades older than myself pedaled hard bearing camping gear up and down the mountain. I think of her often and hope she knows she inspired me.
The drive is worth it when you break free of the forest and stop at the first turnout overlooking the wild Pacific Ocean roaring away hundreds of feet below. The air turns salty and clean and the views stretch to the distant horizon.
I stopped at Manchester State Park Campground. I made it early that night and decided to venture to the shore navigating my way down to the tidal pools. I perched on the rocks glad for my jeans, sweatshirt, and hiking boots. The pools left behind curious mussels, barnacles, and tiny fish playing hide and seek.
My last stop was Point Arena Lighthouse. This famous lighthouse is perched on a rocky promontory accessible by a lone winding road. I climbed the lighthouse and listened to the discussion of the Fresnel Lens. This remote and wild part of the coast is a reminder of the power of erosion. In the visitor center, you can clearly see the effects of erosion with before and after photos.
Finally a week after my arrival, I drove over the Golden Gate Bridge now confident in my handling of the small RV. I was hooked.
What I Learned
The redwoods reminded me that we are but a blip in history as they have witnessed the rise and fall of many civilizations.
I am more capable than I imagined.
I learned how to hook the right hose to the right pipe and press the right button. This was epic.
Before You Go
For reservations, please visit www.parks.ca.gov. California has enacted new regulations regarding fuel-efficient RVs. Please get your vehicle checked as they will pull you over for inspection.
When I go back, and I will it was that incredible, I will stop at Glass Beach near Fort Bragg. I understand that there are regulations that prohibit you from removing ocean glass, but it is worth a stop.