*as published in North Canton Living Magazine
After a week of camping at Oregon Inlet and exploring the nearby towns of Nag’s Head, Kitty Hawk, and Buxton, I was worried that Ocracoke would be boring. All I had were memories of deep, clean beaches and a little tourist town only accessed via ferry. As a single, disabled, older woman camping her way down the East Coast, I figured I had nothing to lose. So I packed up my Campervan named Wilbur and we took off for points south.
Ocracoke Island is located south of Hatteras Village and half of the island is controlled by the National Park Service. A free vehicle ferry operates a daily shuttle from Hatteras Village. Expect a line as wait times can be as long as two hours.
Regardless of the wait, the ferry is a forty-minute ride through the Pamlico Sound. If you are lucky, dolphins may race you across. I camped at the NPS Ocracoke Campground and despite the late season, the campground was packed. The campground is full sun and the sites are squashed together but that is not why you camp there. You camp there for easy access to the gorgeous beaches.
Ocracoke beaches have been rated in the top ten of the world. I believe it. The beach is deep with silky sand and fairly free of beachgoers. After the packed ferries, I am always surprised that the beaches are so empty. If you like to shell, this is the place. If you like to fish, this is the place. If you like to sunbathe and enjoy the sound of the waves, again, this is the place.
Ocracoke is a working fishing village. A short drive to the only village on the island brings you directly to a place that reminds you of Key West. You slow to a crawl and traffic often consists of golf carts and bicycles. Along the winding road are many bountiful seafood restaurants featuring fresh catches and outside patios. Downtown Ocracoke is the location of a paid ferry to Cedar Island or Swan Quarter as well as the harbor for the local fishing fleets.
If you are a fan of history and have young children, check the National Seashore weekly events and look for ranger talks. The ponies of Ocracoke are also around for viewing in a large enclosure surely to tickle the youngest of your group. For those with more larceny in their hearts, Blackbeard used Ocracoke for his pirate fleet. Blackbeard’s last battle was on Ocracoke on November 22, 1718, when he was finally killed by His Majesty’s Navy Commander Lt. Maynard.
As for my time on Ocracoke, I spent it on the beach. I doused myself daily with sunscreen and hauled my single blanket over the dunes and watched the waves. Or the fishermen. Or the few children building sandcastles. In other words, I had the perfect few days of simple, relaxing time in the sun.
If you like shelling, consider nearby Portsmouth Island. Portsmouth Island is uninhabited and there remain only a few buildings maintained by the National Park Service. You can visit there by hiring a boat service. Several boat tours arrange trips there for shelling. It is rumored to be the best in the world.
Another consideration is a four-wheel-drive vehicle and purchasing an off-road vehicle pass. An ORV pass will allow you to drive on the beaches and perhaps visit some more remote parts of the island. This is recommended for fisherman or that tourist who really doesn’t like people.
The majority of the campers around me had one advantage that I didn’t have. They had bicycles. Lots and lots of bicycles. Ocracoke Island has one main road, Highway 12, that runs the length of the island. Highway is a misnomer as it is only two lanes. All along the highway lies a wide bicycle-only path making it the perfect route to and from the village. I highly recommend you bring your bicycles for your stay as village parking is at a premium.
With the daily high winds, I was blessed with a fairly bug-free week. The campground is surrounded by marshy land and the bugs are fearsome. Come prepared with bug spray and a screen tent to best enjoy the outdoors.
Speaking of critters, as you cross the dunes either by path or walkway, slow down and look for tiny footmarks in the sand surrounding a hole. Ghost crabs inhabit the holes and their sideways scurrying walk can be entertaining for all ages. I spotted several tiny crabs and larger crabs every time I crossed over to the beach.
On my last night on the island, I headed over to the dune walk-over which gave me a fairly high vantage point. From there, I watched the sunset over the sound in front of me as the stars twinkled over the ocean behind me. The soft breeze kept me company and the ghost crabs scuttled under the walkway. The perfect end to my week on Ocracoke.
What I Learned
Not all vacations need to go, go, go. Stopping and slowing are important as well.
Figs grow wild on Ocracoke and make the most excellent cake.
About 700 people claim full-time resident status on Ocracoke Island
TIPS FOR VISITING
Housing is a premium on Ocracoke but vacations rentals are available. Check online for availability. NPS operates the Ocracoke campground and reservations can be made at recreation.gov
To avoid crowds, consider visiting off-season.
Go prepared! There is one village grocery (Ocracoke Variety Store). I love to give my custom to locals but due to size, there can be difficultly in quantity and variety.
Distance from North Canton, Ohio to Ocracoke – 694 miles with a twelve-hour drive time