*as seen in North Canton Living Magazine January 2024
I shouldered my day pack and considered my route. A simple mile. Right through town. My hiking shoes were tied and I elected to use both canes instead of hiking poles. The day had dawned with pain and while the trail was mostly through the town, there was unfamiliar terrain leading up to the town. I was going to hike the middle mile of the Appalachian Trail in Duncannon, Pennsylvania.
Since childhood, I dreamed of hiking the Appalachian Trail and the summer brought many opportunities to cross it as I wound my way through the northeast. The 2,198.4 mile trail originates in the Chattahoochee National Forest, Georgia, and winds its way through fourteen states ending in Baxter State Park, Maine. The middle mile runs right through Duncannon, PA just north of Harrisburg. This is one of the few places the trail intersects with a town. In mid-June every year Ducannon celebrates the through hikers at their Appalachian Trail Festival.
Duncannon is part of Perry County with only 43,000 residents. This county is only a half hour north of Harrisburg and one and a half hours north of Gettysburg. I was there to hike the middle mile and photograph their fourteen covered bridges. With nearly 200 covered bridges across the state, Pennsylvania is home to the most remaining covered bridges in the U.S.
During my stay, I was fortunate to have a friend familiar with the back roads and the location of the covered bridges. We wound through tiny towns and dodged Amish buggies as I hopped out and photographed the historic structures. At one point, I waded through Sherman Creek to photograph Enslow Covered Bridge which is 110 feet long. The bridge accommodates traffic but the nearby creek also allows for larger vehicles to ford the stream when the water is low. I rolled up my pants and made my way carefully across the mossy stones. The cool water eased my sore feet after the prior day’s efforts over the trail’s middle mile.
Perry County is also rich in history. The Perry County Historical Trail hosts 113 historical markers examining a part of our nation’s history. Twenty-three of the markers are found at a memorial park in Elliotburg an easy stop on the way to see several of the fourteen covered bridges. The historical marker trail also intersects with the Quilt Barn Trail – one of the country’s fastest-growing grassroots public art movements.
As I hiked the middle mile of the A.T., I enjoyed the cool views of the nearby Susquehanna and Juniata Rivers. Two nights before I sat on the porch of a local winery with deep views of the valley and an excellent selection of local wine. That morning the local coffee shop in downtown Newport provided pastry and an eye-opening coffee before I wound my way to Duncannon. The sky was clear blue and traffic minimal on the back roads of this large yet sparsely populated county.
In a few days, I was planning on visiting the National Civil War Museum in Harrisburg before I journeyed to Gettysburg. But for now, I was relishing the small achievement of a childhood dream and my brief hike on the Appalachian Trail.
What I Learned
The A.T. was conceived in 1921 by Benton MacKaye and was built by private citizens. The trail was completed in 1937 and today is managed by the National Park Service.
The A.T. is the longest hiking-only footpath in the world.
The elevation gain and loss of hiking the entire trail is equal to climbing Mount Everest sixteen times.
Less than 22,000 people have completed the entire trail.
The A.T. cuts through the oldest mountain range on the planet.
The bridges were originally covered to protect the base from the elements. The traditional red paint of the bridges and barns is due to a cheap combination of milk, lime, and red iron oxide.
Before You Go
Hotels are better found in Harrisburg. Airbnb lists several reasonable properties in Newport, PA. Camping is available at Little Buffalo State Park which also hosts a large pool and recreational lake that offers canoes and kayaks.
There are few restaurants available in the area. I recommend Mactracchio’s Restaurant located at the Green Valley Campground and Grocery. Call ahead for reservations. Don’t be deterred by the outside as the food is incredible and reasonably priced.
Expresso Yourself Coffee in downtown Newport offers an excellent lunch. Try the soup! Wilderlove Coffee Co in Duncannon offers an excellent brew and sandwiches.
Bucks Valley Winery is located in Newport. This small family winery boasts a delicious cranberry wine and makes a cheesy stromboli. I purchased several bottles of the Twisted Cranberry for the upcoming holidays.
If you are feeling nostalgic, the Red Rabbit Drive-In is just north of Harrisburg along Highway 22. They offer a decent burger and excellent shakes and ice cream. Perfect stop for a sugar craving.
The National Civil War Museum is located centrally in Harrisburg. The museum operates in association with the Smithsonian Institution. Individual tickets begin at $16. Nationalcivilwarmuseum.org.
The Perry County Historical Trail can be accessed via any convenient QR code located on a marker. For the entire trail, perrycountyheritagetrail.com is an excellent starting point with information on the Quilt Barn Trail as well.
If you decide to take the Heritage Trail and/or visit the covered bridges, please make sure your gas tank is full and have a paper map available and/or download your maps. Cell coverage is spotty and gas stations are infrequent.
Pack a lunch and water. Use the bathroom when you find one. This is the least populated area of Pennsylvania and services are few and far between.