*as puboished in North Canton Living Magazine May 2022
In front of me lay the rolling hills of the Badlands National Park. Behind me lay the Buffalo Gap National Grasslands. I was parked in a free camping area featured in the movie Nomadland. I sat quietly at sunset and watched small mountain goats scramble their way up the rocky incline of the badlands. The wind buffeted my camper and I pulled my blanket closer. My neighbors were a hundred yards away and their lights beginning to blink on. A mile behind me I could hear the slight sound of Interstate 90. Viewing the vastness of space and sheer magnitude of the Badlands, I began to develop a deep appreciation for anyone who dared to live there hundreds of years ago.
About eighteen hours directly west over I-90, in the lower southwestern corner of South Dakota lies an area of wonder. Most people drive through on their way to the magnificent Yellowstone National Park. I suggest that it is a vacation destination on its own. I began a large somewhat circular loop starting with Wall, SD home to Wall Drugs. Wall Drugs is a roadside attraction made famous by the miles of self-promotional billboards. After miles and miles of grasslands, I made the stop for my free glass of ice water which Wall Drugs started giving away in the 30s. From Wall Drugs, it was only a few miles directly south to the now-famous boondocking area called The Wall.
Badlands National Park requires a national park pass. The park was a national monument until 1978. It is most famous for its buttes and pinnacles. The southern part of the park is co-managed with the Ogala Lakota tribe. Badlands Loop Road (Highway 240) is the quickest method of seeing the park. The loop road takes about 2-4 hours to drive without stops. But please stop. There are a variety of hikes that take you right through the breathtaking pinnacles. If you have little ones, you will want to let them run and climb along all the rocky trails. Be sure to take lots of water and sunscreen. There is no shade and it can be quite hot and dry.
From the Badlands, I headed west to Wind Cave National Park. I camped at the Elk Mountain Campground. While the campground has minimal services and no cell reception, the night sky is brilliant with almost zero light pollution. At the time of my visit, the cave itself was closed but the location of the park made it a perfect place to visit nearby Custer State Park and drive the amazing scenic Needles Highway. Needles Highway winds its way through rocky peaks with soaring ponderosa pines. The blue sky topped every twist and turn with dramatic drop-offs just inches away. This famous scenic drive is named for the granite formations that look like needles piercing the horizon.
While in Custer State Park, I also dared to drive Iron Mountain Road. This seventeen-mile stretch is known for its three tunnels and pigtail bridges. Iron Mountain took about an hour to slowly cruise its seventeen miles including several stops to take pictures of the plentiful wildlife. But the wildlife is best seen along Wildlife Loop Road. At this point of the trip, I had to plug in my phone as it was quickly dying from all the photos. Bison, feral donkeys, deer, elk, and coyotes were all visible along these two stretches of road. While Iron Mountain was sparsely populated; Wildlife Loop Road was prone to wildlife traffic jams. I was grateful for my trusty van Wilbur because toilets and food were scarce. So if you see a bathroom, stop.
Mount Rushmore was only forty-five minutes away and a quick trip up a four-lane highway from Wind Cave NP. Traffic here is heavy and parking is at a premium. Despite the crowds, the walkways quickly disperse the visitors so it’s easy to get around what appears to always be a crowded site.
You will see a buffalo. The best place I found was at Wind Cave National Park. There was minimal traffic and the buffalo own the land. Wind Cave did an excellent job with roadside signs educating this novice. While they seem like such docile creatures, they are enormous and should be treated with great caution. The signs say stay away – and away I stayed. While parked at a pullover reading one of the many signs, I heard a grunt behind me as the buffalo crossed the road heading straight for my vehicle. From the safety of Wilbur, I quickly determined that the buffalo would always win. The immense and shaggy beast scratched his side on the roadside sign, gave me a baleful look, and moved on with lumbering grace.
The black hills of South Dakota are worth several weeks of exploration. Rapid City, SD is just outside this diverse area with airport and hotel accommodations.
TIPS FOR VISITING
Most National Parks and Monuments require an access pass. Visit Cuyahoga Valley National Park to purchase your pass in advance and save you time later. If you are senior or disabled, ask about the all-access pass.
Boondocking is camping without hookups. The western states have many national forests that permit free dispersed camping. Check out the online maps before you go and stop at the ranger station for up-to-date protocol. Please be aware of the fire regulations because many areas do not permit fires.
Custer State Park in South Dakota is one of the most popular state parks in the entire United States. Camping reservations at their beautiful campgrounds are booked a year in advance.
The nearby cities of Custer and Hot Springs have hotel accommodations that provide a good starting point for all the tourist activities in the Black Hills National Forest.