*as seen in North Canton Living Magazine December 2023
I zipped my heavy fleece and tugged on my winter gloves. The wind was brisk and blew through my layers stinging my eyes and cheeks. I stood on the overlook looking over the edge and marveling at the difference in the weather. At the base of the mountain, the temperature was a lovely 72 degrees; at the top, it was 34 degrees. I made my way back inside the building and held the door for a long line of Appalachian Trail thru-hikers who all gave me a weary smile and thanks. It was mid-August.
Mount Washington, New Hampshire boasts the worst weather in the world. The highest wind ever observed by man was recorded there on April 12, 1934, at 231 miles per hour! Today we were only experiencing a brisk 32 miles per hour. The elevation of Mt Washington is 6,288 and terminates on the Crawford Path which is labeled the oldest mountain hiking trail in America and in continuous use since 1819.
There are three ways to reach this famous peak. You can drive the perilous, narrow, and winding road; hike up via the Appalachian Trail, or take the Cog Railway. I opted for what is locally called The Cog. The Cog Railway is a biodiesel locomotive that uses a system similar to a sprocket and chain on a bicycle. Over three hours, we slowly climbed the mountain and returned to the valley floor after spending an hour at the peak. I was fortunate to book a last-minute reservation scoring a single seat on one of the many trips up the mountain. At first, I wanted more than an hour at the peak, but after experiencing the brisk freezing wind, I realized an hour was enough.
The Mount Washington Cog Railway is only an hour north of North Conway, New Hampshire. North Conway is the heart of New Hampshire’s White Mountains. Hotels, Airbnb, and assorted restaurants dot the picturesque town. I opted instead for Diana’s Baths Waterfalls. Only twenty minutes out of town, I hiked the easy mile to a 75-foot cascading waterfall with a series of pools feeding into each other. I arrived early that summer morning and paid the five-dollar entrance fee with easy parking for Wilbur. I packed my lunch and found a sunny spot alongside the waterfall dangling my tired feet in the cool water.
At each pool down the cascade, a family spread out on the surrounding rocks. Their children playing in the cool water with their ever-watchful parents an arm away. As I soaked up the sun, a small pebble bounced off the top of my head. I shrugged off the intrusion and turned my face to the sun again. Another pebble. I slowly stood and turned. Behind me and above the ledge stood a tiny toddler with a handful of pebbles. His father grinned sheepishly and I smiled. The toddler slowly realized what happened as the pebbles dribbled from his hand. I sank back to my comfortable spot and resumed my quiet meditation. More than fifteen families were engaged in water fun up and down the waterfall that day. The shrieks of laughter lifted my spirits.
After my day on Mt. Washington, I traveled to the other side of the mountain range. By bird, it was only ten miles. By car, I navigated through the narrow twisty roads for forty miles and two hours. I stayed several days at the Dolly Copp Campground just south of Gorham, New Hampshire. I was fortunate to score a single site at the sold-out national forest campground. I was even more fortunate when I found myself amid a family reunion of a large, massive family from Boston. Immediately, they included me in their evening campfire sharing beer and stories. I was told the week before a large bear had meandered through the campground. I became mindful of where I kept my trash from then on. I am now an honorary O’Shaughnessy.
What I Learned
The Cog Railway was established in 1869 to serve the growing tourism of the area.
The Mount Washington Weather Observatory was established in 1932 but weather observation began in the winter of 1870.
Mount Washington is frequently visited by teams planning to ascend Mount Everest to practice camping in extreme weather conditions.
More than 161 individuals have perished on Mount Washington since 1849. Many died within yards of the weather station. The weather is changeable and called the world’s deadliest mountain.
Before You Go
North Conway, NH is a popular destination. Winter for the ski season and summer for the cool forests. Plan ahead and make your reservations early. The area is expensive and you may need to expand your search and plan on a drive to experience a moderate price range.
Do not underestimate the weather. Even in the heat of summer, pack a light jacket, water, and snacks. If you decide to ascend Mount Washington, dress in layers and warmly. Be mindful of children and wear gloves. For current weather conditions, check mountwashington.org.
The Mount Washington Cog Railway operates year-round. In the winter, the railway only descends halfway with a stop to purchase hot chocolate. In the summer the trip can take all afternoon. Reservations are recommended and tickets are pricey. thecog.com
If you wish to drive to the summit, be mindful that the road is windy, narrow, and quite difficult. The Road to the Sky has a prime season minimum toll of $40 for car and driver and goes up from there. Wilbur was not allowed on the road and there are restrictions on vehicles. No reservations are necessary. Please check in advance to see if your vehicle qualifies. Keep in mind it is not an easy drive.