*as seen in North Canton Living Magazine May 2024
Mindful of the 45 mph speed limit, I drove along the deserted road in the early morning. I planned to make it back to Del Rio by the end of the day and did not relish the lonely drive along the main paved road in western Texas – Highway 90. I hoped to see the dinosaur exhibit on the two-hour drive to exit the park. As I began to brake for a rare stop sign, a large mountain lion strolled across the road. My mouth open, the tawny cat looked at me curiously as if daring me to leave the campervan. Enormous, I could see the muscles ripple under their fur. As quickly as it arrived, it disappeared into the cactus undergrowth leaving behind the feeling of untapped power.
Big Bend National Park is located in far west Texas along the Mexican border. Named for the bend in the Rio Grande, the park is more than 700,000 acres. An established national park and international biosphere, Big Bed is part of the Chihuahuan desert. The Chihuahuan desert is home to many cactuses that are only found in that part of the world.
I spent the first weekend at Chisos Basin Campground. At an elevation of 5,400, the campground was originally planned by the CCC in the 1930s. The lodge rests up the mountain with a restaurant and trading stand. The entire area is surrounded by mountains and dotted with piñon pines. Thought to be an ancient caldera, the area is accessed by a twisty two-lane road. Wilbur at twenty-one feet barely made the drive up the mountain.
Due to elevation changes, there was only one trail I could hike in that section of the park. This is a rugged hiking area where you need to be physically fit and pack for all emergencies. I elected to stay on the paved trail and hike to the overlook – or window – where you could see the desert floor through a break in the mountains. I spent an entire morning there on a bench in the shade watching the shadows play over the mountains.
The dinosaur exhibit is an outdoor area documenting the archeological finds from the 1930s. Cast replicas of the bones found are on display. Their sheer size boggles the mind. Big Bend is the most diverse and covers a longer time period than any other national park. It is here they found the bones of a pterosaur, the largest flying dinosaur.
The majority of Big Bend is desert floor carved by sudden rain storms that appear and disappear quite suddenly. The Rio Grande forms the park’s western boundary and offers lots of opportunities for water sports. You can visit Boquillas, Mexico via a river boat. During the time that I was there, the border was closed due to low visitor status. In the spring and fall, the river is a Mecca for float, raft, and canoe trips.
Rio Grande Village is on the desert floor. There is a non-electric as well as full hook-up. The non-electric side is operated by the National Park Service.
Unfortunately, I left early when I realized that many of the trails I hoped to explore were too high in elevation; too remote or difficult to access, or just plain dangerous on my own.
The sun was brutal; it was cold in January and the distances were difficult to imagine. From Rio Grande, it is almost two hours to leave the park and there is no cell service. From the edge of the park, you drive another two hours to reach the nearest town. There are two gas pumps in the park and then another three hours to the next gas pump.
As I left the park, I was grateful that I adhered to the recommendation of filling up at every gas station I passed and packing a gallon of water for every day there.
What I Learned
Big Bend’s highest elevation is 7,800 and its lowest is 1,850. Ohio averages 850 feet in elevation.
There is a shared border of 118 miles with Mexico. There are 196 miles of the Rio Grande.
Rio Grande Village receives on average 6 inches of rain per year and Chisos receives 16 inches of rain.
Before You Go
Water. You don’t sweat in Big Bend. The air is so dry that it will evaporate before you feel it. So plan on a gallon of water per person per day. Force yourself to drink water all day. Dehydration is common and hospital facilities are quite distant.
Elevation. Altitude sickness is quite common. It often feels like a hangover with nausea, headaches, muscle pain and fatigue. I developed a mild case of it with a bronchitis chaser just after Big Bend. I recommend taking your time to acclimate. Move slowly even if you feel well. Drink plenty of water and seek help if symptoms increase. Symptoms typically set in twelve to twenty-four hours after arrival.
Floppy hats. Sun shirts. Lots of sunscreen. Hiking boots with ankle coverage and support. Walking sticks. Dress the part. There is no shade. No break from the sun. And snakes are rampant. Be aware and stay on the trail.
Prepare to enjoy the night sky. Big Bend is on the southern edge of a large dark sky preserve. The buildings are designed to be dimly lit at night providing the best star viewing. Purchase a star viewing tool (remember no cell service) and kick back to view the stars.
I want to be direct here. While there is a stark beauty in the Chihuahuan desert, this national park was my most challenging to visit to date. I heeded all the advice and found there was little I could do. This is a park for rugged adventuring. Go prepared and enjoy.