*as published in North Canton Living October 2023
The mist rolled below me as the sun rose slowly from the Atlantic Ocean. I was perched on the farthest eastern part of the US coast watching the sunrise from Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park, Maine. Far below me the midst and fog swirled in and around the surrounding islands playing peek-a-boo with the colorful sailboats bobbing in the bay. Far below nestled in the early 5 am dawn lay Bar Harbor tucked into a corner of Mt. Desert Island. I was fortunate to score a ticket to drive up the mountain as I watched dedicated and tired hikers emerge from the only trail to the summit. Quietly, people gathered in small groups to watch the sunrise. Whispers were carried on the wind as we all sat on the large granite mountaintop in awe of the scene before us.
I was camped at the Blackwoods Campground at Acadia National Park. I felt blessed because Acadia is one of the busiest national parks with more than 4 million visitors a year. The campground sold out in minutes and I made it months in advance. My small slice of heaven was deep in the pine woods surrounded by granite boulders that looked like a giant tossed them like dice. The island shuttle was a short walk away and I was centrally located in the park.
The heaviest traffic is between Sand Beach and Thunder Hole. Along this route is a well-paved and fairly level path that borders the rock-strewn coast with stunning views. Fortunately, due to heavy rain and early sunrise, I was able to use the island shuttle and visit the areas early before the tourists descended.
On sunny days, I headed to the far side of the island to experience a quieter side of the park. Seawall is a small picturesque area with a deep rock-strewn area. Walking on the granite boulders quickly became my favorite pastime in Acadia. Deep below between the rocks, I looked for shallow tidal pools with tiny crabs, and flashes of silvery fish.
Jordan Pond House is a century-old establishment famous for its popovers. I scored a reservation and was seated on the sloping lawn with a view of Jordan Pond. The day was misty but I was comfortable under the table umbrella. The popover and tea with blueberry jelly were delicious!
Crossing over into New Hampshire, I stopped at Rye Harbor. Only an hour south of Portland, Maine I booked a seat on a Whale Watch. Granite State Whale Watch partners with the Blue Ocean Society and a naturalist is on each tour. We journeyed to Jeffrey’s Ledge and spotted more than eight whales as well as a pod of more than 50 dolphins. The highlight of the trip was a sighting of a mother and her three-month cub!
The entire trip lasted about six hours. We took one and a half hours to reach Jeffrey’s Ledge and spent two hours following whales while in that location. I met a family from West Virginia and a couple from Kansas. There were more than seventy people on board chatting with each other; sharing photos of the whales and supporting each other as the ship rocked back and forth. While I didn’t see a complete whale breach, I saw many dark shapes slowly surface and dive with their tales giving that final splash.
What I Learned
Sand Beach is one of the few beaches along the northeast coast that has natural sand.
In 2012 a diver registered coastal ocean water temperatures of 63 degrees when it had averaged mid-30s to low 50s.
There is evidence of Native Americans visiting Mount Desert Island more than 5,000 years ago.
Humpback whales are identified by the marking on the underside of their tail flukes. They can live an average of fifty years but researchers are not entirely sure of that accuracy.
Moose sightings are rare despite all the moose crossing signs. The moose population has migrated farther north where the temperatures are cooler.
Before You Go
Acadia National Park is busy so plan accordingly. Weather is unpredictable with snowy springs and wet falls. The park does not completely check for national park passes. Go prepared and visit the NPS website for pass details.
Bar Harbor is the obvious choice for hotels and cottage rentals. The streets are narrow and traffic can be snarling. Consider renting bicycles for the village as well as cruising the miles of Carriage Roads that crisscross the park.
The Acadia National Park campgrounds offer clean bathrooms but no showers. Pay showers are located across from the Blackwoods campground.
Jordan Pond House offers a reservation system. You can reserve in advance or same day. If same day, arrive at least an hour before they open to wait in line to make a reservation. It is well worth the experience.
Whale watch opportunities are available along the coast from Boston to Portland. Select the trip with the shortest journey to Jeffrey’s Ledge. The cost runs from $50 to $100 per person. Even if you never experienced motion sickness, consider a small portion of a motion sickness pill an hour before you leave. Small boats, changeable weather, and wakes could create an onboard problem. Wear good shoes and sunscreen. The temperature of the water is typically 15 degrees cooler. At the dock I was sweating; on the water, I was zipped up in a fleece jacket.
Take a few days to drive the coast and plan to stop in all the small coastal towns with their picturesque harbors and quaint downtowns. Every turn was another breathtaking view.
To avoid crowds consider going in early summer before the east coast schools let out or late summer when they return. Fall is prime leaf-peeping season and crowds will be high.