*as published in North Canton Living Magazine September 2023
As I approached the silky, colorful flags waving in the breeze, I could see each flag was printed with Japanese script in beautiful, flowing letters. Each flag was a little ragged as the wind tossed them against the dark pines of the Massachusettes forest. I paused to admire the life-size zen garden of white rocks with the familiar swirl of lines raked into sweeping lines. The posted sign explained that each flag was a prayer for peace to be placed outside allowing for the wind to carry the prayer to the heavens.
The New England Peace Pagoda is located in Central Massachusetts in Leverett about a half hour north of Amherst. Built entirely by volunteer labor, the Peace Pagoda was inaugurated in 1985. It is a Buddhist stupa designed to inspire peace and provide a focus for all races and religions to unite for world peace. Most (but not all) peace pagodas built since the Hiroshima and Nagasaki atomic bombs were built under the guidance of Nichidatsssu Fuji, a Buddhist monk from Japan.
I visited the stupa first at the four niches depicting the life of Buddha. Each niche was created by Sri Lankan artisans. They worked without photos, pictures, or sketches. The images came solely from their devoted hearts and were guided by their creative spirit. Each niche depicts a time in Buddha’s life with the gold statues surrounded by flowers and incense. As I walked the stupa with only the chirp of birds for accompaniment, the enormity of the undertaking was quite evident. The stupa is large and similar to an inverted lotus blossom.
Next to the stupa is an enchanting man-made pond designed by Japanese architect Dr. Saito who was named a living treasure in Japan in 1986. The garden features a large rock bridge and towering trees as you wind your way among the many hidden paths. The silk flags flutter above you and koi nibble below.
The life-size zen garden sits at the site of the old temple that burned down only seven weeks after the inauguration of the stupa. The garden is offered as a healing gift on the foundation of the old temple. Rock gardens are a tradition in Japan, particularly at Temples, to encourage contemplation. I unsuccessfully tried my hand at creating large swooping designs focusing on the moment with the large wooden rake provided.
The Buddhist temple was open to visitors. I left my shoes at the entrance and entered the fragrant temple with the arcing smoke of incense burning at the door. Placed around the temple were signs encouraging peace, kindness, and compassion for others. At the entrance of the temple, sat a quiet display with a quote from a young victim of the Hiroshima bomb. Twelve-year-old Sadako Saki’s last thought was for the children of the world. Her last written words were “I will write peace on your wings and you shall fly around the world” as she created a paper crane. Ribbons of colorful paper cranes were strung around the entrance.
A local Japanese sculptor built a Gendai Toto Samai. This structure is often the first erected when a Peace Pagoda is built. It is similar to the Totem in Native American tradition marking and holding the spiritual intention of the land. The stone of the sculpture was found on the land of the pagoda and rolled there using logs from the woods.
I sat in the shade of the evergreens quietly eating my lunch as I watched groups of people troop up the long pathway to the stupa. Little children ran in and around their grown-up’s legs. Monks sat quietly in contemplation on cushions or chattering with each other in small groups. All ages, races, and religions were visiting and the sense of peace was pervasive.
What I Learned
Approximately 1,000 volunteers of all religious backgrounds built the Peace Pagoda.
The poured concrete structure is 103 feet high and 140 feet in diameter at its base.
There are 80 Peace Pagodas worldwide.
Four pagodas exist in the United States. In addition to Leverett, there is a pagoda in San Francisco, California; Grafton, New York and Newport, TN in the Great Smokey Mountains.
7% of the world’s population is Buddhist and it is considered a world religion. More than 500 million people practice.
Before You Go
Please download and print out directions before you leave. The Peace Pagoda is in a remote area on windy and often unpaved roads. Take your time and slow down. It may not look it, but there is quite an active population around with quintessential New England houses tucked deep into the woods.
There is no admission charge to visit. Donation boxes are marked with no suggested donation. Leave what you can; if you can.
You park at the bottom of a steep winding gravel road and hike up. If you are like me, handicapped, continue up the gravel road to the few spots at the top of the long hill. It can be a difficult walk for little legs and old legs alike so plan accordingly. Be ready to carry the little ones or bring a cane. Strollers won’t survive the trip on the gravel.
Pack in and pack out. If you are like me, I brought my lunch and took the trash with me. Plan for sunscreen and bug spray. Ticks are a big problem in New England woods. Prepare accordingly.
Plan for a few hours if only to accommodate the hike. Allow yourself time to sit in contemplation. Or chase the kids across the grassy meadow.
This is an area of quiet contemplation so if you bring kids don’t bring toys like frisbees. There were many people visiting in meditation.