*as published in North Canton LIving March 2023
I pulled my stocking cap down over my ears as the frigid wind blew off the gulf pulling at my full-length downcoat. The beach was empty to the west and the east save for a lone kite soaring offshore. I ambled along keeping a close eye on the dark and heavy clouds along the distant horizon as I noticed the kite growing larger. I watched in amazement as a kiteboarder sped along the surf soaring and flipping in the air. Taking out my phone, I began to film the acrobat as he skimmed the surf spraying me with salt water, and then zipped back out to flip in the air again.
The Gulf Islands National Seashore is a series of barrier islands that lay at the mouth of Pensacola Bay just south of Pensacola, Florida. I was camping at the Fort Pickens Campground for two weeks over the holidays. The campground was fully booked but empty due to the nasty winter weather that had locked the nation in a freeze. Christmas Eve, I was evacuated to a nearby empty hotel where I and a handful of frozen campers sought refuge. The following week upon returning I was evacuated again due to storm surge and flooding. Regardless, I got my geek on during those few days the islands were accessible.
Fort Pickens anchors the end of one island. Built-in the 1800’s, the Fort is a fascinating historical structure. The National Park Service provides an app for a self-guided tour. The rooms are creepy, cold, and damp. As I wandered through the maze of rooms learning about cannons, I pondered the difficulty of building on shifting sands. Deep into the tour, the park service working with archeologists had removed a portion of the building so you could view a reverse arch system built to accommodate the weight of the hand-cut brick walls.
Fort Pickens was built by enslaved Black men in the early 1800s, in 2020 Fort Pickens was recognized as a site for the Underground Railroad.
Scattered throughout the park are large overgrown structures that served as battlements during WWII. The large guns took a crew of thirteen men to calculate, aim, and shoot each cannon.
In 1861, the only time the fort was fired on, the neighboring fort across the bay held by the south fired on Fort Pickens held by the north. The bombardment continued for forty-eight hours until a storm forced each side to cease fire.
My favorite part of the area is the large sea wall built in WWI that circled the entire fort. The wall is about three feet deep and approximately five feet tall. Perfect for early morning and late evening walks. The height and distance give you perfect views of the sunrise and sunset.
Ever a kid at heart, I asked for two copies of the Junior Ranger book (one for me and one for my granddaughter.) I spent a pleasant few afternoons completing the puzzles and learning about the local wildlife. This program is an excellent way to guide your kids’ attention. Upon completion, you are sworn in by a Park Ranger in a solemn ceremony complete with a shiny badge. I skipped that part this time around.
I spent one day in Pensacola wandering the picturesque downtown streets and peering into the local store windows. Due to the 2019 terrorist attack, the naval museum is open only to service members and arrangements must be made in advance. I spent a lovely afternoon at the Odd Colony Brewing Company sipping their local brew Blueberry Cheesecake Sour Mash. I wanted to dive in. Yum.
What I Learned
Geronimo was incarcerated at Fort Pickens for about two years.
Dolphins are visible daily in Pensacola Bay.
The blue herons are unafraid and will stalk you on the beach. Be warned.
Despite the weight of the cannon, they were designed to move and could aim with deadly accuracy.
The powder magazine tunnels are narrow, low, and still smell of gunpowder.
The WWII guns were designed to fire and immediately drop below the site line.
Touring the fort is not for the faint of heart. It is creepy and your kids will love it.
Before You Go
Gulf Islands National Seashore is part of the National Park Service and requires an entrance fee. Annual passes range from an $80 annual fee to free for the disabled. If you are interested, visit Cuyahoga Valley National Park to obtain your pass in advance. Gulf Islands does offer a daily fee ranging from $15 to $25 as well as a seasonal pass. Visit www.nps.gov for more information.
Fort Pickens Campground is large with a variety of sites from electric to no frills. There are full bathhouses available. Reservations can be made up to six months in advance at www.recreation.gov. Due to the mandatory evacuation, I was able to work with the kind people at recreation.gov to receive a reimbursement. They are great people at work there!
Pensacola Beach is a series of hotels, restaurants, and house rentals that place you at the entrance to the park. Over a bay bridge, Gulf Breeze offers even more accommodations and services. Nearby Pensacola is about two bridges and sixty minutes from the campground. The entrance and drive through the park are long and slow – plan accordingly. While the distances appear short on the map, the enforced speed limit adds time to your journey.
There is no shade. Except at the campground which is sparse. Pack your bug spray and sunscreen. There are few amenities available once you enter the park so be prepared to take your food and pack it out. Gas stations are quite a distance so be prepared.